Our guilt at passing through the refugee camps and meeting the shoe-less boy was not helped by arriving at the Nyungwe Forest Lodge. This is a pretty sumptuous place - driven the 50m from reception to our lodge in a golf buggy and wine glasses kept in the freezer if you choose the white kind of place.
It's a working tea plantation, and just to make you feel even more guilty there are tea pickers working their butts off just outside our room.
Which is just gorgeous - a huge bed, fantastic bathroom, a balcony that looks onto the forest, cold beers in the fridge, a chaise longue.....
We try to wash off our guilt in a hot bath! Hot water, what a luxury.
We were invited to the evening tea ceremony,
A very polite waiter explains the tea making process and then talks you through a tasting after allowing the teas to infuse for the right amount of time.
There are some lovely cakes and biscuits to be eaten while taking the tea. Karen, who hates tea, was presented with some of the nicest tasting coffee in the world so she could feel involved.